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RE: hapi jac 4500 cut apart pictures
Sorry I'm not set up to do the pictures-- but the location of the bottom zerks fitting is 1" above the foot plate on the side of the jack opposite the camper-- just to make it easy to get at. You need to watch that fitting when retracting the leg. The fitting on the white tube is about 1/2 way between the crank hole and the top cap on my manual jacks. I held it toward the front of the camper so it would not interfere with anything inside the box. Look inside before you drill.
If you fill the black tube with grease when it is extended you will expel grease when you retract it--so fill with the jack retracted. It takes about a tube and a half of grease per jack with my 4100's.
Another poster asked about 30 wt oil poured in from the top. I tried that and it had little benefit and short duration. Grease stays put--oil does not.
I don't know what happi jac engineers have against the zerks fittings but I do know they were no help when I called to ask what to do with mine when it rusted. Their suggestion was to return them to the factory at $124 for UPS shipping each way and have them rebuild them. Given how they were built in the first place a rebuild by them and more trouble 2 years later did not seem smart. I figured I had nothing to lose with the grease job and could put the cash I saved away for a new set of jacks if that became necessary. So far the zerks/grease job is working.
While I had everything apart I also sanded and then sprayed the bottom 8" of the white tube with rock-guard and then covered that with white Rust-O-Leum as the tubes had begun to rust where the factory paint did not adhere to the sharp edges at the bottom of the tube and it was coming off in large flakes. This seems to have solved that problem as well--tho I could use a repaint over the rock-guard now.
A final suggestion: Putting any lube on a rusty threaded rod is a poor fix. If you are having trouble take it apart, de-rust and clean it up--then do whatever lube you like.
Good Luck!
Herb
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canusa
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10/02/08 08:30am |
Truck Campers
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RE: hapi jac 4500 cut apart pictures
I have posted this before-- but the answer to the question about installing zerks fittings is ..yes.. you can do it. I did two years ago after finding the threaded rod rusty and seizing--And yes...I did do the factory suggested maintenance on them. After a thorough inspection and cleaning and de-rusting I put one fitting just above the foot on the black inside tube and filled that tube--when in the retracted position-- with grease. I put another in the gear box at the top of the white tube and filled it as well.
There have been a few turds of grease that came out of weep holes in the foot and a bit of grease that works out the the crank socket at the gear box but otherwise no problem. I like the fix--works for me. No more seizing = longer life for the jacks.
Cheers!
Herb
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canusa
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10/01/08 01:39pm |
Truck Campers
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RE: Raising & lowering TC with manual jacks?
My camper is a fairly light 8.5 foot but I have found that not every 18v. drill will do the job. The El Cheapo's would not lift mine. Since I have other uses for it I bought a dewalt 18v heavy duty job and it works great in 1st( very low) gear. One complete lift--off the blocks and on to the camper just about kills the battery tho. Some folks have reported good results with sears or ryobi drills--and others like something heavier duty like the Makita. If you have a chance to borrow a few to try them out you might want to do that to see what works for you before investing a lot of cash. Keeping the front end up higher than the back as you go is very good advice. I can load in 15-20 minutes working around from jack to jack which doesn't seem a problem to me. But then I haven't been a real hurry since about 1973.
Cheers!
Herb
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canusa
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10/01/08 01:25pm |
Truck Campers
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RE: What percent off of msrp can I expect?
There is another way to look at this: The only price that counts is the price you can actually get. Percentage discount guidelines aren't worth much. Even at what looks like a good discount you may be paying too much in this market!
What I did when I bought mine new was to get a list of ALL the dealers for that brand and then phone,email or write to them explaining I was contacting all and accepting bids for the one I wanted. Most wouldn't play ball--but three did. Some got highly offended as they seemed to think being a dealer gave them an absolute right to charge msrp. Then we went to round #2 where I asked for a final bid. The best one was the one I took and it was close to 40% lower than MSRP.
In this market if you were flexible with your needs and willing to take what a dealer has on his lot right now I'll wager you could do even better than that. You might tell them what you want but also tell them you are willing to consider a super deal on something they already have if it comes close to your needs.
This approach worked great in a good RV market--it should work even better now. What have you got to lose?
Good luck!
Herb
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canusa
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09/16/08 05:27am |
Truck Campers
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RE: Found my airbag leak, comments please?
I had firestones on my 01 Dodge 5 years ago. They both leaked. When I tried to get firestone to deal with it under their warranty they told me that slow leaking was normal and not covered under the warranty. They sent me some fine print that proved it was in fact their policy. Mine would go down in 5-10 days. I have found with the new hydroformed dodge frame I don't need the bags--but my camper is fairly light.
Cheers!
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canusa
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09/10/08 02:10pm |
Truck Campers
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RE: Happi Jacks?? Tell me all about them, please
My experience with Happijacs has not been a good one. I got mine new on the camper in 2001--and they are manual not electric but the basic works are the same.
Mine were rusty on the outside white tube in a little over a year with absolutely no exposure to salt. The paint was lifting off in large flakes. The threaded rods inside the jack that allow them to move up and down also rusted although I followed the factory manual instructions for lubing and extending them. I ended up having to take them apart completely, derust, install grease fittings and then pack solid with grease to prevent further rust. I also found I got water penetration, perhaps wind driven, in the gear box under the plastic cap at the top of each jack. This is where the electric motor fits on the power models. I have caulked around the bottom edge of the caps to stop that.
I have not had the problem of the foot of the jack suddenly dropping and hitting the road with all the damage associated with that sort of thing. Thank goodness. Others have. A search here will get you those stories
A number of times I emailed and spoke with people at the factory. Although I was unfailingly patient and polite with them I got snarkey and insinuating answers back from the office staff. They may have been secretaries--I don't know. They were somewhat knowledgeable but what they seemed to know was that no problems came from design or manufacture--they all came from customer abuse of the product. You know,my 5 year old camper still looks like new inside and out. I just don't abuse my stuff. I maintain it. I certainly did not selectively abuse the jacks while taking good care of the rest. The only reason the jacks are still there at all is because I have done a whole lot of maintenance on them.
Now I understand ( but don't know) that they have a new owner. Things may be better--or at least different. I know some folks have had a good experience with the jack and the management. Personally I'd move to another brand when the time comes. Good luck to your friend with the search for a good jack
Cheers!
Herb
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canusa
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08/19/08 03:13pm |
Truck Campers
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RE: Sewer hose
I had the same problem. My solution was low-tech and very low labour but works well for us. I got a 5' piece of 4" flexible, perforated drain pipe like that used around foundations of new buildings and for agricultural drainage. Home Depot and Lowe's sell it in long coils but also by the foot. I also bought 2 end caps for it. Using long plastic locking tie straps through the perforation holes I suspended it from the rear bumper. It has been there for almost 5 years now, everything is holding up well, doesn't look bad. The cost was just a few bucks. The only complication has come from customs inspections when crossing the US/Canada border. It often catches the eye of the officers who want an explanation.
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canusa
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08/19/08 05:05am |
Truck Campers
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RE: larry looks at northstar camper
DITTO! Great after sale care.
Cheers!
Herb
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canusa
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08/17/08 01:57pm |
Truck Campers
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RE: Premium Tires
I put a set of Toyo's Open Country 245/65/16.5 load range E on the 04 ram in January--too soon to know how they'll run out--BUT one of the 4 was made in China I later found out. They look identical. So far I can't see a difference but I am keeping an eye out for any wear differential. I used Toyos on the camper vans I sold years back and they gave fantastic wear. But that's history. If it makes a difference to you specify made in Japan only.
Cheers!
Herb
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canusa
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07/29/08 04:28pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Please tell me why I should/shouldn't buy this truck
I just have to put in my 2 cents worth ( if it is in fact worth 2 cents) re: gas vs diesel. True diesel costs more than gas. here it's about 12-15% more--BUT-- it costs a heck of a lot less per mile driven than gas.
This is really an "apples and oranges" deal. With my 01 dodge gasser I was lucky to get 12 mpg with the camper on, and with my 04 CTD I have no problem getting 19 and 20 with the camper on. I have a 6 speed manual and try to keep the rpm's under 2,000 but I drive about the same as I did with the gasser--my habits have not changed.
Diesel is not for everyone. It's a little noisier,harder to find stations. But if you drive enough miles and have enough of a load to haul the extra cost for the diesel motor can pay you back, and the power is awesome.
Cheers!
Herb
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canusa
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07/27/08 05:41am |
Truck Campers
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RE: Idiot Owner!- Fridge not running on Electricity!
Rockhillmanor,
Sounds like it's time for you to change dealers. A call to Dino might get you on the right path.
Cheers!
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canusa
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07/20/08 03:08pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Tail light problems - Dim!
Great trouble shooting there! I have a suggestion for still brighter tail and rear blinker lights that came from this forum a few years back. It was to cut a piece of old mirror to a size that would pretty well fill the back of your light housing and silicone it in place--behind the bulb--of course. I did it with mine and it really helped. The factory housing has zero reflectivity--just mill finish steel and the mirror makes it much brighter.
Cheers!
Herb
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canusa
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07/20/08 02:51pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Northstar - tell me what you know - I love the Extra Bed!!!
No great help with your configuration issue but I wanted to tell you that you couldn't deal with better manufacturers than Rex and Rory at Northstar. They build a great product and their after sale help has been fantastic. They understand customer satisfaction.
Cheers!
Herb
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canusa
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07/17/08 04:17am |
Truck Campers
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RE: Formaldehyde in Truck Campers?
All kinds of materials can cause different kinds of off-gassing. Solvents in adhesives, fibreglass and poly items like pre-moulded tub/showers, varnishes, carpets and other flooring, wire insulation, upholstery fabrics and foams, plywood and OSB as well as other fibre boards to name a few. They are always there in all kinds of home as well as RV construction.
Some folks have no sensitivity to them at all, and some, like my wife are instantly and massively sensitive to many of them. Like a lot of other sensitivities and allergies, more exposure makes the reaction worse and worse. It's like drops of water into a barrel. It can go on for almost ever with no problem--but once the barrel is full every drop causes an overflow, meaning a bad reaction.
I used to think that these sensitivities were psycho/medical baloney and learned over time they are very real for some people.
All that said, I guess the real issue is how sensitive are you?
We found looking at campers on sales lots that 5 minutes in some would cause her an awful reaction with painfully enflamed sinuses and headaches that lasted days. The one that worked best for us was the one we bought and we have been very satisfied with it. The manufacturer advertized low off gassing materials and meant it.
Over time, and that can be measured sometimes in years not weeks or months, the off-gassing decreases and the irritants subside to a tolerable level. Some folks with bad sensitivities buy used for that reason.
If you already know you have a problem you also probably have had some medical treatment and know what to look out for. If you suspect a problem you might want to arrange to spend at least a night in the unit to see how you do. Everybody is different--no one size fits all solution.
Cheers!
Herb
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canusa
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07/10/08 06:25am |
Truck Campers
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RE: Norcold 682 refrigerator coils freezong up
We used to do the "dollar bill test" in Canada too but can't anymore. Our smallest bill is a $5 now. Too bad-- it was a good test.
Cheers!
Herb
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canusa
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07/01/08 04:32pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Small 12v Fan for Norcold Refrigerator
I found my power in the outside fridge compartment and then brought the wire in to the fan where the temp sensor ( fine copper pipe) comes into the back wall of the fridge. Mine ,a dometic, just had gum seal around that hole and it was easy to pierce it with the new wire and then pull it thru from the inside of the fridge. I used a very small 2" o.25 amp computer fan and it seems to do an adequate job. I have it switched and only run it when it is warm out. Also have 3 2.5" computer fans mounted as a bar in the exhaust stack--blowing up at the finned cooler. They really help when it gets into the high 80's or 90's.
Cheers!
Herb
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canusa
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07/01/08 04:27pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Sway bar bushings
J C Whitney used to sell polyurethane bushing kits. Don't know if they still do, but I had a set that were great and cheap. If you have exact sizes they might be able to help.
GoodLuck!
Herb
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canusa
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07/01/08 04:13pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Refrig still not working good on LP
I have the smallest 3 way Dometic fridge, I can't remember the model number off-hand, but it is totally manual. Even brand new I had the same problem you are describing. If the manual that comes with the fridge were actively honest it would tell you to expect hot weather to make cooling difficult
Fans were the answer for me. I combined 3 2.5 inch computer fans into a bar and controlled them with a temp control module that allow it to cut in at a stack temp of 90 degrees and off at 75 and mounted that in the stack just below the finned cooler and above the slanted elongated coil of pipe where it could help exhaust the built-up heat there. I also rigged a tiny 2", very thin computer fan inside the refrigerator itself to help circulate the cold. I have manual switches on both fans so that I can shut them off or turn them on independent of temperature if I want.
That pretty well solved the problem. The frig still reacts to outside temps but even when they get high I don't get above 40 degrees inside.
One more thing. If you don't have it now you should get a decent little LCD indoor/outdoor thermometer. They cost under $10 and allow you to monitor the fridge temp. without opening the door to do it. Human nature says when you get concerned about a problem you will keep checking it. In my case I found as the fridge got warmer in hot weather I was forever opening the door to see if it was doing any better. That, of couse, defeated any hope I had of the thing ever cooling! With the thermometer in place I can check temps without opening the door.
I do freeze 1 or 2 gallons of water in milk jugs for the start of a trip but re-freezing overnight with the tiny freezer in my unit just can't be done. Freezing some foods or juice is also a good idea as they help with the cooling until thawed or consumed
Good luck with yours!
Herb
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canusa
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06/16/08 04:52am |
Tech Issues
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RE: impact driver to run happijacs??
Thanks to all for the suggestions. Joec, the driver you show is not the one I have. Mine is a little stubby thing with a slip chuck that takes only 1/4" hex tools. It would never work for removing wheel nuts. No clutch on it like there is on the big drill either. I have a kit of 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2 inch socket drives that all have 1/4 hex stems that would do the job. In fact they are what I use now with the 1/2 hammer drill (but I have never used the hammer feature on the jacks!!).
While I am not a radical Happijac fan I like them well enough not to want to do any damage to them. I won't use the impact driver until I know someone else--some one less risk averse than I am, has had a good experience with it over a reasonable period of time.
Cheers!
Herb
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canusa
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06/09/08 11:46am |
Truck Campers
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impact driver to run happijacs??
For 5 years I have used an 18v. Dewalt heavy duty DW989 drill in 1st gear to raise and lower the happijacs on my 8.5 Northstar. It always worked great. However...last week, while building a ramp with it I had a worker on the site come over and offer me the use of his 18V dewalt impact driver (model dw056) and I could not believe how easy it was to sink 3.5 inch screws, very compact and very powerful, very little slippage. I had to have one--and yesterday I bit the bullet and bought it.
Now I'm wondering if anyone has had experience in using one of these little babies to operate the camper jacks. They are in constant impact mode but it is a light hit, not like the old hammer drills--just 1000's of them per minute.
Theory is great but I'm looking for personal experience. I'd rather keep using the drill that I know does no damage than do some harm to the jacks. But... if it really does the job without harm I could take up much less precious room with tools. Has any one tried this??
Many Thanks,
Herb
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canusa
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06/08/08 07:19am |
Truck Campers
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